What a day, this morning we visited Cedar Breaks and a look at Bryce Canyon National Park from a viewpoint during lunch; we are now directing towards Escalante on the Utah 12 Scenic Byway. On this trip luck is with me, the sky before all cloudy now is clear and blue, so the excursion to Devils Garden is sure. Now the problem is to reach Hole in the Rock to see it in the day light. The road is very curvy and with deep canyons; the horizone is a constant change of colors from a deep red to a badland cream color, similar to the view seen at Zabriskie Point in Death Valley. When we stop in the many view points we feel confused on the constant change of climate and horizone.
I can not say this is a boring trip, this morning I was in the heat of Kanab, and then climbed over 3000 meters to Cedar, then back down to almost 2000 to Bryce and now in the deep Utah in Escalante. We are almost arriving and all the sceneries we’ve seen today this one is strong, dry. I am coasting a small dry river and soon should find a small bridge on this way that will drive me to my hotel. But, no views of houses around here it looks desert; at the door of Escalante I have not seen a sign that indicates a restaurant or hotel. It is important to keep calm, and avoid emotional reactions so not to upset my mate. I was starting to give up my hope, when their in the bottom of a hill a strange construction; a very modern structure which well integrates with the scenery
A few curves an a small cart road in the middle of the bush wood and we arrived; waiting for us a big tall man with a white beard came to offer to carry our luggage, very nice welcome. Within a few seconds I realize that we are not in a traditional hotel, it is a private house arranged to receive guest dew to the rooms on the upstairs floor. The interior decorating is marvelous, all in Indiana and western style at the same time, a big fireplace, a living room very cozy with many pictures and books about the southwest. The walls are all decorated with Indian rugs and painting that represents the moments or the life of the native. Every object is exposed with the picture of who created the product; maybe with the hope that someone is interested in buying. Our room is something unique: a big bed more like a giant pillow, with on the wall beautiful paintings of Indians. Everything smells new, probably renewed the place recently, a small balcony looking towards the badlands. One of the best motels visited in the states.
Got my equipment for excursions and my camera, just the time to stop for maps and info on the street to Hole on the Rock. A ranger informed me on the terrible showers of the morning around the whole area, and the possibility to find some zones not practicable; so drive more carefully then usual and go only with the right vehicle. Very funny to hear my mate asking “what the ranger said? Telling her a lie of the street conditions. A few miles after we cross a small urban center, so small that we did not realize it was the famous city of Escalante. We haven’t seen a fast-food crossing the main street, but one problem at a time, now I have to find the entreace to Hole in the Rock. Found the way well signed after a few minutes we where traveling on a soft road of fin red sand. Traveling we found a bumpy road after the soft sand, and deep wholes of rain water. Good thing there is no traffic on the opposite way, having to drive zigzagging to avoid flat tiers or ruining the Ford Explorer.
We haven’t met cars coming or going, probably left to late, at this hour who went are already their and who has to return will probably delay. A small piece of straight road permits to se the view around us; we are crossing the Grand Staircase, with small hills here and their. We are alone in all this nature. I don’t want to think of the entire street we have to travel before reaching the Hole that joins with Lake Powell. We reach Devil Garden in a half an hour, 20 km in all to reach Utah 12. From the street I can not admire anything; the time to park, and your eyes opening front of you to see natural sculptures out of normal. Small platforms of smooth rock with pinnacles, and rocks that twist around themselves all towards the sky, cream color of the walls with pink veins marvelously silhouetted with the deep blue of the sky. Some rocks corrosive from wind and rain to form arches so thin that seem to want to fall. An example is the Metate Arch, beautiful natural sculpture with a very thin double acre.
It’s like seeing an open sky museum; the area is not big and can be visited in short time, but my curiosity would make me stay here all night. Every platform seams to present a different theme. The only thing that is blocking me is the signs of snakes I see a lot around. I am terrorized of snakes so one steps at the time and eyes wide open near the bushes. With a little bit of attention there is no danger, it is nice to be in this place alone, and listen to yourself.
What to see at Hole in the Rock? To see all the back roads of the over 50 miles location will take at least tree days; Devil Garden, the slot canyon of Spooky and Peek-A-Boo just to mention the most known. Mean while, watching the sunset that exalts the red tone of Devil Garden towards the deep blue sky.
Its late time to go towards the base, before it gets to dark and still has to pass that bumpy road. The sun on our left is starting to set quickly, but we are already on the Hwy 12; now the problem is were to eat. Crossing the main street of Escalante; I have a few addresses of restaurants taken from internet. The first one does not exist anymore, the other one has the door closed with two woods nailed on the door forming an X. Tonight dinner will be difficult to find. We found a small market between two closed cloth stores; we are safe! The store has no bread, fruit or other that doesn’t have millions of calories. We took the only pack of muffins left and some fruit juice, never happened before not to find food in an American supermarket. Escalante is a small town in the deep west, which destroys all American myths. Deciding to go back to our hotel we seek a lighted sign under a porch “pizza”. I could not believe it; a small bar-restaurant. We sat at one of the tree tables on the patio, besides use a couple of French. A little later 3 young guys on there pickup seamed to have enjoyed there day in the desert. With 7 people the bar is full, but the pizza is eatable. This long day is ending, I am sitting in a chair in a bar almost empty, while I eat my pizza thinking of the magical silence, in an almost ghost town. The colors of the sunset are at the end of lightening the Grand Staircase; I am tired, but happy of the day just passed. |
